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Panama geisha coffee to get its own online auction
By Brian Harris
REUTERS
10:49 a.m. March 12, 2008
BOQUETE, Panama – Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda gourmet “geisha”
coffee, which has broken world price records in online coffee
auctions, is now so sought after that the farm is planning its own
Internet auction this year.
In a bold step never before attempted by a single estate, the
farm in the cool highlands above Panama's western town of Boquete
will put its entire crop up for bidding in a private auction, farm
administrator Daniel Peterson said.
“We are going to auction all of the geisha together. This is the
fairest form of exchange,” Peterson told Reuters in the warehouse
storing this year's harvest, just 200 60-kg bags.
The farm's coffee is popular with high-end roasters and
connoisseurs drawn to its sweet jasmine flavors that win the rare
beans high scores at cupping events.
The coffee had cultivated a reputation similar to fine wines
grown in specific regions, and is now one of the world's most
expensive varieties.
Last year Hacienda's small lot sold at an unprecedented $130 per
pound at the “Best of Panama” online auction, where bids were taken
by telephone after passing the computer system's maximum price of
$99.99 per pound.
Peterson said the geisha coffee would likely be sold in roughly
120-kg lots, with the green coffee shipped in vacuum packs. The date
of the auction has not been set although the farm is aiming for May.
Bidding could start at $5 per pound.
Buyers are both excited and wary of the experiment.
“We are going to participate in the auction but I am worried
about the pricing, it is expensive,” Yuji Sato, a coffee buyer for
Japanese firm Wataru & Co., told Reuters through an interpreter
after a recent visit to the famed farm.
Sato and some other high-profile buyers say they prefer to
negotiate directly instead of competing at an auction.
FARM EXPANSION
“It would be hard for us to buy all of our coffees at auction,”
said David Pohl from northern California specialty roaster Equator
Coffee, which purchased 60 kg of the Hacienda's geisha coffee last
year at just under $13 per pound.
Pohl said he strongly backed an idea by the farm's owners to
auction the lots according to the exact date the beans were picked,
given the coffee's fame.
“I love that idea. There are quality differences to be noted when
there are different dates,” Pohl said by telephone.
The move by the farm shows how far online auctions have come
since they were started in the late 1990s as a way to separate
high-quality coffees from the conventional market.
It took time for the model to catch on but it has worked well for
small producers like Panama, where the scarcity of the fine,
high-altitude geisha beans helps boost prices.
The country produces under 180,000 60-kg bags of green washed
arabica per year, less than 10 percent the volume grown by
neighboring Costa Rica.
The geisha coffees come from a variety introduced to Panama in
the 1960s but virtually abandoned early on due to low yields.
Growing demand from new specialty roasters is convincing farmers
like Peterson to expand. The 14-hectare Hacienda farm will nearly
double its planted area next year.
That would help ease buyers' concerns that supplies are so low
the coffee can only be used for special promotions instead of being
offered to customers year-round.
“You put it up online, people go crazy and it is gone. It's a
novelty,” said Pohl.
(Editing by Jim Marshall)
by Bryn
Nelson
Sep 13 2007
How an orange-scented coffee bean from northern Panama became one of
the most coveted in the world.
Photograph by: Jeff Taylor/Polaris Images
When the auction began on the afternoon of May
29, six cartels had set their sights on 500 pounds of an almost
mythical Panamanian product. For eight hours, they bid and
counterbid online, with one determined group lodging a total of 27
separate offers—all in vain. After a frenzied tit-for-tat between
the final two contenders, the price for the juggernaut known as La
Esmeralda Special steamrolled past the record set the year before,
fetching an astonishing $130 per pound. The winning bid was more
than 11 times the price of the auction’s next-highest-earning coffee
bean.
Yes, coffee beans.
Anything described as “explosively floral on the palate” by the
Specialty Coffee Association of America might be expected to attract
a certain amount of attention, especially after being named the
world’s best coffee by the association for three years running. A
judge from Kansas City scored it a perfect 100 in this year’s Best
of Panama competition. A Seattle coffee executive blogged that “its
aroma practically sings to you from between endless rows of other
exemplary coffees.” A New York barista dubbed it the “undisputed
heavyweight champion of coffee.”
La Esmeralda Special is all the more remarkable given that, a decade
ago, the spindly trees that produced the beans were little more than
windbreaks owned by the family of a prominent American banker. But
while the hefty price may be a curiosity, Esmeralda’s popularity
signals a broader shift in an industry where quantity, not quality,
has long reigned supreme. In a post-Starbucks world, specialty
coffee has become a hot commodity, and La Esmeralda Special is far
from alone in the upper echelons.
“I think we’re seeing a fundamental shift in the coffee industry in
terms of making coffee much more of a personal and exciting beverage
than it ever has been,” says Susie Spindler, executive director of
the Alliance for Coffee Excellence, an organization in Missoula,
Montana, that runs the Cup of Excellence competitions and online
auctions in eight countries.
The most recent rush of excitement has been over a roasted bean
variety called Geisha. Originally from Ethiopia, the relatively
low-yielding but disease-resistant Geisha trees were transplanted to
Central America in the 1950s. They were soon yanked from coffee
farms, however, as the market shifted to mass production in response
to exploding demand.
In 1964, Swedish-born Rudolph Peterson, then chief executive of Bank
of America, bought Hacienda La Esmeralda, a dairy and beef farm in
Panama’s Chiriqui highlands. The property was eventually passed on
to his son Price, who in 1996 expanded the family’s holdings, buying
a nearby farm with a “mish-mash” of coffee trees on its upper
reaches, according to Price’s son Daniel. Almost immediately, the
family could smell and taste something special in the cups of coffee
produced from the farm’s beans.When
they isolated the taller Geishas and planted more at a slightly
higher altitude for the 2003 to 2004 season, the coffee really
blossomed, Daniel says. In 2004, La Esmeralda Special swept the
intense Best of Panama and Rainforest Alliance cupping
competitions—at which the few dozen entrants with the best aroma,
sweetness, mouthfeel, flavor, aftertaste, and balance are
identified—and set the first of its auction records with an online
price of $21 a pound. “This is a flavor that had not been found in
the Americas,” Daniel says. It can now be found at high-end online
retailers and some of the best coffeehouses in the U.S. and Canada.
At a basic level, industry insiders are increasingly defining
well-regarded specialty coffees by what they are not: blended or—Sacre
bleu!—French roasted. Jeff Taylor, co-owner of PT’s Coffee Roasting
Co., in Topeka, Kansas, says top buyers, wholesalers, and retailers
are more interested in single-origin coffees and lighter roasts that
highlight a bean’s best features.
Like a vineyard’s grand reserve wine, the finest coffee beans are
often found in microlots, or small subsets of farms like Hacienda La
Esmeralda, where, as Taylor puts it, “all of the stars align.” In
the partial shade of the higher-elevation lot, Esmeralda’s Geisha
trees may not be models of productivity, but the slower cycles let
them pack more sugars and oils into their beans and turn heads in
coffee competitions.
Coffee enthusiasts also make comparisons with the wine industry’s
success in marketing nuanced vintages; some boast that chemists have
identified about 850 natural compounds contributing to the flavor of
roasted coffee—many more than in a classic Bordeaux. An Ethiopian
coffee called Biloya Selection One is acclaimed by PT’s Coffee for
its “syrupy pineapple sweetness that’s supported with deep blueberry
overtones,” while an offering from Panama’s Bambito Estate is lauded
by Groundwork Coffee Co., a Los Angeles firm, for its “juicy,
apple-cider-like texture and sweetness that pairs decadently with
tones of dark chocolate, pepper, and clove.”
On a leafy side street in New York’s Chelsea neighborhood, other
discoveries are showcased at Café Grumpy, where cheerful baristas
preside over steady sales of individually brewed, single-origin
coffees and espressos. Coffeehouse co-owner Caroline Bell says she
secured a bag of the prized Esmeralda beans before May’s
recordbreaking auction, through a roaster who had a direct
relationship with the farm. A 16-ounce cup of the famous java was
the most expensive item on her August menu and, at $8, was far
closer to what nearby restaurants were charging for a glass of pinot
noir.
With its notes of Italian bergamot, orange rind, lavender, and
jasmine, the coffee was worth every cent, according to Café Grumpy
barista Jay Murdock. Customers apparently agreed, snapping up about
80 pounds of the café’s 100-pound allotment before Labor Day. (The
café is saving the rest for the holidays.) Bell says that
ultra-discriminating coffee drinkers are akin to those who shop at
farmers markets: It’s the difference between buying waxy tomatoes
in a supermarket and springing for a Brandywine heirloom cultivar.
Or perhaps it’s the difference between the aroma of a boxed wine and
the toast-and-cherry-tinged nose of a ’95 Shafer cabernet sauvignon.

Coffee: The New Wine?
A look at the world's most expensive coffee, with CNBC's Michelle
Caruso-Cabrera


Vancouver's priciest coffee
By Marke Andrews, Vancouver Sun
Published: Friday, August 10, 2007
I usually take milk with my coffee, but adding a dairy product to
Vancouver's most expensive brew somehow felt sacrilegious, like
grease-penciling a moustache on Raphael's Madonna del Granduca.
"I wouldn't do that," said Joaquin Quian, manager of the bustling West
Hastings Steet coffee bistro Caff Artigiano, which begins selling Hacienda
la Esmeralda Especial - at $15 for an eight-ounce cup - next week at all
five Caff Artigiano outlets.
Hacienda, which the folks at Caff Artigiano call in a press release
"the world's best coffee, EVER!" comes from Panama, and was given an
unusually high score of 96.4 out of 100 by the normally snooty judges at
the Specialty Coffee Association of America's 2007 Roasters Guild Cupping
Pavilion Competition. The judges liked its aroma, its acidity and the
lasting aftertaste.
It sold for $130 US a pound in its raw, green-bean form. Caff Artigiano
bought 80 pounds of it. In addition to selling single cupfuls, they will
also sell beans in half-pound bags for $135 a bag.
"People out there love coffee," said Quian, whose
bistro previously sold a highly rated Brazilian coffee for $5 a cup. Caff
Artigiano bought a six-month supply of the Brazilian coffee, which sold
out in less than four months.
On Friday, Quian demonstated the proper way to serve a cup of this
black gold. He ground the beans, added the right amount of water, and put
it all in a french press, which each customer is served along with a small
cup containing warm water.
"You must rinse the oil from your mouth with the water," says Quian,
halting my impulse to use it for a finger bowl. "That's the best way to
taste the coffee."
Once in the French press, it's best to wait three minutes before
lowering the plunger. Some coffee aficionados actually use a timer.
Like a good wine, the coffee will taste better if its allowed to sit
and, to use wine terminology, breathe.
Before taking my first step toward coffee nirvana, Quian had one more
bit of advice: to enhance the taste experience, one should slurp the
fluid, mixing oxygen with the drink. I suppose you could do the same with
a straw, but straws are in short supply at a coffee bar.
And how is the coffee?
Well, I'm no snob, and on first slurp I thought the drink was thin -
not Victoria Beckham thin, but not full-bodied Oprah Winfrey either.
However, just as expert Quian suggested, the more it cooled and the longer
it sat in the cup, the better it tasted. By that last sip, I was ready to
buy myself a bag of the stuff.
I'll just need to take out a second mortgage.
mandrews@png.canwest.com

Originally posted: May 30, 2007
Panamanian coffee grabs $130 a pound
price at auction
Posted by Monica Eng at 3:00 p.m. CDT
So who's got the best coffee in the
whole world? It's starting to seem like Panama's coffee estate Hacienda La
Esmeralda has the market cornered. For the third year in a row, the estate
snagged the "world's best coffee" title at the Specialty Coffee
Association of America's Roasters Guild Cupping Pavilion Competition
earlier this month. And on May 29, the estate's "Esmeralda Especial"
fetched a record auction price of $130 a pound in an online auction.
So is Esmeralda really so especial? Is it really worth about 100 times the
cost that commercial coffee usually goes for on the commodity market?
Until we get our hands on a fresh bag of the new stuff from Chicago-based
Intelligentsia (which will be getting some of this batch in a month or
two), we have this account to rely on from Trib Internet Critic Steve
Johnson.
Last year (another prize-winning year for La Esmeralda), Johnson brought a
bag of the estate's coffee into the office -- hey it WAS an Internet
auction and you need a lot of coffee to stay up late nights reading all
those Web sites -- and brewed up a pot for the office and here's how it
dripped out.
May 30,
2007 06:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time
World’s
Best Coffee Captures Record Price in Online Auction
Panama’s
Hacienda La Esmeralda Sets World Mark for Coffee Sale of $130 a Pound
LONG
BEACH, Calif.--(BUSINESS WIRE)--World famous coffee estate, Hacienda La
Esmeralda, set another record when its Esmeralda Especial coffee sold for
a stunning $130 a pound during an online auction on May 29. The Panama
coffee producer was recognized for producing the world’s
best coffee during the Specialty Coffee Association of America’s
(SCAA) 2007 Roasters Guild Cupping Pavilion Competition on May 7, an event
Hacienda La Esmeralda also captured in 2005 and 2006. This year marks the
third time in four years that the Panama coffee producer sold coffee for a
world record-setting price.
After nearly eight hours of negotiating by six different bidders, 10
bags of Esmeralda Especial – each weighing 50
pounds – sold for $65,000. Commercial-grade
coffee is currently selling in the commodity market for just above a
dollar per pound. The winning bid was entered by an alliance consisting of
49th Parallel Roasters, Coffee Klatch Roasting,
Groundwork Coffee Company, Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea, The Roasterie,
Roastermasters.com (Willoughby’s Coffee & Tea)
and Zoka Coffee Roaster and Tea Co.
“Today’s sale of
Esmeralda Especial affirms the decision made by 30 experienced roasters
during our recent SCAA Cupping Pavilion event, which Hacienda La Esmeralda
won this year,” said SCAA President, Dawn
Jantsch. “The sale also supports the position
specialty coffee holds as a premier beverage in the culinary industry.”
Price Peterson, owner of Hacienda La Esmeralda, said,
“The response of buyers participating in today’s
auction underscores the current demand for premier specialty coffee. The
exceptional demand for Esmeralda Especial as well as the other coffees
entered in this auction also serves to raise the awareness of the premier
quality of specialty coffee that is grown by the farmers of Panama.”
In addition to Esmeralda Especial, 24 other lots of specialty coffee
totaling nearly 19-thousand pounds – ranging in
price from $1.95 to $11.80 a pound – were sold
in the online auction, which was hosted by the Specialty Coffee
Association of Panama. All of the coffee sold in the online auction
received high marks during the “Best of Panama”
cupping competition held in April. To view the results of the auction,
visit:
http://auction.stoneworks.com/includes/pa2007/final_results.html.
To learn more about Hacienda La Esmeralda, visit:
http://www.haciendaesmeralda.com
To learn more about 49th Parallel Roasters,
visit:
http://www.49thparallelroasters.com/
To learn more about Coffee Klatch Roasting, visit:
http://www.klatchroasting.com/
To learn more about Groundwork Coffee Company, visit:
http://lacoffee.com
To learn more about Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea, visit:
http://www.intelligentsiacoffee.com
To learn more about The Roasterie, visit:
http://www.theroasterie.com/
To learn more about Roastmasters.com, visit:
http://www.roastmasters.com/
To learn more about Zoka Coffee Roaster and Tea Co., visit:
http://www.zokacoffee.com/
About the SCAA
Celebrating its silver anniversary in 2007, the SCAA is the world’s
largest coffee trade association. SCAA members are located in over 40
countries and represent every segment of the specialty coffee industry,
from coffee growers to coffee roasters and retailers. The SCAA’s
mission is to be the recognized authority on specialty coffee, providing a
common forum for the development and promotion of coffee excellence and
sustainability. The SCAA’s dedication to
excellence in coffee is realized through the setting of quality standards
for the industry; conducting research on coffee, equipment and perfection
of craft; and providing education, training, resources and business
services for members. The SCAA’s annual
conference is held in a different U.S. city each year and is the coffee
industry’s largest gathering and exhibition.

Hacienda La Esmeralda tiene el mejor café del mundo
Cindy Calderón

PANAMA AMERICA
Hacienda La Esmeralda de Panamá fue reconocida por
tener el mejor café especial del mundo, por tercer año consecutivo.
Se informó que este productor de café ha impuesto una
marca al ganar este año la competencia del gremio de tostadores de la
Asociación Americana de Café Especial, celebrada en Long Beach,
California.
Con anterioridad había ganado esta competencia en el
2005 y en el 2006.
Hacienda La Esmeralda, ubicada en Boquete, provincia de
Chiriquí, y Carmen Estate Coffee, en Volcán, fueron dos de los 104 cafés
finos de todo el mundo que participaron en esta competencia internacional
que duró tres días.
De igual manera, durante la misma conferencia y
exhibición de la Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA), la
certificadora de productos Ecológicos Rainforest Alliance anunció los
resultados de su evento "Cupping for Quality", en el cual un panel de más
de 15 catadores independientes escogieron a La Esmeralda y a Carmen Estate
Coffee como los mejores.
martes
22 de mayo de 2007
©Copyright 1995-2007 Panamá América-EPASA
Todos los Derechos Reservados
Panamá, martes 15 de mayo de 2007
ALTA
CALIDAD.Variedad geisha reina en la "Cupping Pavilion 2007".
Cafés panameños dominan
competencias mundiales
Hacienda La Esmeralda y Carmen Estate
lograron nuevos galardones en el negocio cafetalero.
Los productores nacionales se preparan
para subastar 25 lotes de sus mejores muestras el 29 de mayo.
Dustin Guerra
dguerra@prensa.com
Cuando se habla de café panameño Geisha,
de Hacienda La Esmeralda, todos hacen venia en el mundo cafetalero. La
reina de los cafés especiales en Panamá no deja de sorprender y este fin
de semana colocó una presea más a su corona, tras alcanzar la catación
internacional "Cupping Pavilion 2007".
La finca cafetalera que opera en
Jaramillo, Boquete, dominó por cuarto año consecutivo ese evento
internacional, donde se evaluaron 104 muestras de café de todo el mundo.
Pero la Geisha panameña no estuvo sola y
junto a ella se colocó en séptimo lugar su compatriota Carmen Estate, otra
finca local que produce café de alta calidad.
"Se ha trabajado duro en los procesos y
allí están los resultados", dijo Carlos Fransechi, representante de Carmen
Estate S.A.
Dominan en orgánicos
Pero los galardones no terminaron allí. Ambas fincas
también fueron notificadas oficialmente como las ganadoras del la
competencia de Rainforest Alliance, principal certificadora de café
orgánico de Estados Unidos.
El sabor a jazmín de la "geisha" y su peculiar fragancia
dejaron en el camino a otras 100 muestras de café orgánico de 11 países
productores, según un informe oficial de Rainforest Alliance. En segundo
lugar se ubicó Carmen Estate, que recibió 88.9 puntos, por encima de
productos de Colombia, El Salvador, México y Nicaragua. En los últimos
cuatros años ambas fincas han dominado ese evento.
"Las prácticas sostenibles rinden un producto superior",
comentó Sabrina Vigilante, jefa de comercialización de Rainforest
Alliance. "Los granjeros están mejorando la conservación del suelo y del
agua".
Subasta al rojo vivo
La subasta internacional de los cafés panameños podría
batir nuevos récords de precios este año. Los 25 lotes que entrarán en la
"puja y repuja" de fin de mes son codiciados por al menos 75 compradores
en todo el mundo. La subasta electrónica se realizará el 29 de mayo.
"Son dos eventos mundiales que dejan muy claro la calidad
de café que se está produciendo en el país", comentó Clemente Vega,
presidente de la Asociación de Cafés Especiales de Panamá.
A pesar de las promesas del Gobierno en incrementar los
incentivos y ayudas a los productores de café de alta calidad, todavía no
hay ningún proyecto concreto.
"Estamos preparando una nota al Mida para saber en qué
quedaron las promesas para el sector", dice Vega.
Las exportaciones de café mostraron una caída de 3.2% en
2006, debido a la reducción del parque cafetalero en distritos de Tierra
Altas, como Volcán y Boquete.
 Specialty
Coffee Association of America Reveals World’s Best Specialty Coffee
Panama’s Hacienda La Esmeralda Wins an Unprecedented
Third Consecutive SCAA Roasters Guild Cupping Pavilion Competition
SCAA’s 19th Annual Conference & Exhibition
LONG BEACH, Calif.–(BUSINESS WIRE)–Panama coffee estate, Hacienda La
Esmeralda, reached the highest level of coffee supremacy May 7 when it was
recognized for having the world’s best specialty coffee for a record third
consecutive year. The coffee producer set the mark by winning this year’s
Specialty Coffee Association of America’s (SCAA) 2007 Roasters Guild
Cupping Pavilion Competition in Long Beach, Calif. The coffee producer
previously won the 2005 and 2006 Cupping Pavilions. The 2007 event took
place at SCAA’s 19th Annual Conference & Exhibition.
Hacienda La Esmeralda’s winning coffee–from the
Jaramillo region of Boquete, Panama–was one of 104 of the finest coffees
that participated in the three-day international competition.
2007 Cupping Pavilion Results:
1. Hacienda La Esmeralda, Panama
2. El Injerto, S.A., Guatemala
3. Delicafe S.A., Costa Rica
4. Jesus Mountain Coffee Company, Nicaragua
5. Oromia Coffee Farmers Cooperative Union, Ethiopia
6. Ka’u Farm & Ranch Company LLC, Hawaii
7. Carmen Estate, Panama
8. Cafe Importa, Colombia
9. Ka’u Farm & Ranch Company LLC, Hawaii
10. Volcafe Specialty Coffee, Ethiopia
11. C.I. Racafe & Cia S.C.A., Colombia
12. Cafe de El Salvador, El Salvador
More than 30 experienced judges selected the winning coffee by cupping, or
thoroughly evaluating the scent and taste of each coffee sample. The
judges specifically assessed six distinct attributes of the coffee
samples, including: fragrance, aroma, taste, flavor, aftertaste and body.
About the SCAA
Celebrating its silver anniversary in 2007, the SCAA is
the world’s largest coffee trade association. SCAA members are located in
over 40 countries and represent every segment of the specialty coffee
industry, from coffee growers to coffee roasters and retailers. The SCAA’s
mission is to be the recognized authority on specialty coffee, providing a
common forum for the development and promotion of coffee excellence and
sustainability. The SCAA’s dedication to excellence in coffee is realized
through the setting of quality standards for the industry; conducting
research on coffee, equipment and perfection of craft; and providing
education, training, resources and business services for members. The
SCAA’s annual conference is held in a different U.S. city each year and is
the coffee industry’s largest gathering and exhibition.
Certified
Sustainable Coffee Recognized for Outstanding Quality: Results from
Rainforest Alliance Cupping for Quality Events Announced at SCAA
Conference
May 7, 2007
The Rainforest Alliance has announced the results of two
recent Cupping for Quality events, where a panel of independent coffee
experts evaluated coffee from nearly 100
Rainforest
Alliance Certified farms in 11 countries at the headquarters of the
Specialty Coffee
Association of America (SCAA) in Long Beach, California.
Top scorers from the cupping events, which took place
last month and last December, included farms from Panama, El Salvador,
Guatemala, Colombia, Nicaragua and Mexico. With all countries represented
receiving an average score of more than 80, which is the threshold to
receive specialty status, the results of the cupping events show that
sustainable farming practices produce high-quality coffee.
"When farmers are meeting a set of holistic standards
covering soil and water conservation and good worker treatment, those
responsible practices result in the production of better beans," said
Sabrina Vigilante, senior marketing manager in the Rainforest
Alliance's
sustainable agriculture program. "These results show that a range of
industry experts agree. Put simply: Sustainable practices yield a premium
product."
The top-scoring farms were announced at the Rainforest
Alliance Sustainable Coffee Breakfast last Saturday at the Specialty
Coffee Association of America conference in Long Beach, California. Farms
earning some of the highest marks included:
- La Esmeralda, Panama, 90.04
- Carmen Estate Coffee S.A., Panama, 88.96
- Santa Teresa, El Salvador, 88.25
- Finca Medina, S.A., Guatemala, 87.46
- Grupo Aguadas de Caldas, Colombia, 87.04
- Grupo Associativo de caficultores de Teruel Procafe, Colombia, 87.04
- El Recreo, Nicaragua, 87
- La Bastilla, Nicaragua, 86.79
- Grupo Aranzaau de Caldas, Colombia, 86.68
- Los Pirineos, El Salvador, 86.33
- Finca Santa Elisa, Guatemala, 85.79
- Morros Culebras y Delicias, Colombia, 85.57
- Finca Fortuna, Panama, 85.38
- Monte Sion, El Salvador, 85.38
- Finca El Platanillo, Guatemala, 85.25
- Finca Porvenir, El Salvador, 85.25
- Kachalu, Colombia, 85.14
- Las Mercedes, El Salvador, 85.13
- Grupo Colinas de Café, Subgrupo Riseralda, Colombia, 85.04
- Nuevo Mexico, Mexico, 84.92
- Guadalupe Zaju, Mexico, 84.82
- San Rafael, Nicaragua, 84.75
- Finca Nueva America, Guatemala, 84.71
- Finca Muxbal, Mexico, 84.68
- La Virgen – RAMACAFE, Nicaragua, 84.39
- Finca Copalita, Mexico, 84.36
- Monimbo, Nicaragua, 84.36
- San Martin, Nicaragua, 84.35
- Adopta un Cafetal, Mexico, 84.18
Note: The names of some top-scoring farms are not
included because their release forms are pending.
Average scores of Rainforest Alliance Certified farms in
each participating country:
- Panama – 88.13
- Costa Rica – 84.26
- El Salvador – 83.94
- Guatemala – 83.52
- Nicaragua – 82.84
- Colombia – 82.65
- Mexico – 82.10
- Ethiopia – 81.99
- Honduras – 81.33
- Brazil – 81.08
- Peru – 80.51
Improved cultivation and processing techniques on
Rainforest Alliance Certified farms result in higher quality beans. Our
standards encompass all aspects of coffee production and include
requirements such as pesticide reduction, soil and water conservation, and
worker protection, which all translates into better growing conditions for
coffee.
For example:
- Forest cover is a critical element in producing quality coffee. Our
standards require farms that are located in areas where the original
natural vegetative cover is forest to establish and maintain permanent
shade that is distributed homogenously throughout the farm, with a
minimum of 70 trees per hectare and a shade density of at least 40
percent.
- Workers who are treated well and invested in their work care more
about picking quality coffee. Our standards require farms to have a
social policy that declares their compliance with labor laws and
international agreements and summarizes the rights and responsibilities
of the administration and workers. The policy must be shared with
workers and emphasize labor aspects, living conditions, basic services,
occupational health and safety, training opportunities and community
relations.
The following judges evaluated the coffee:
- Ted Lingle, executive director, SCAA (led the panel and also roasted
the coffee)
- Linda Smithers, president, Susan’s Coffee & Tea (and former SCAA
president)
- Chad Trewick, senior director of coffee and tea, Caribou Coffee
- Karen Cebreros, founder and president, Elan Organic Coffees
- Kenneth Davids, co-founder, The Coffee Review
- Lowell Grosse, owner, Charleston Coffee Roasters, Inc.
- Shawn Hamilton, vice president, production operations, Java City
- Cyrille Jannet, coffee trader, AMSA Mexico
- Carl Walker, founder and president, Walker Coffee Trading
- Tobey Foreman, roastmaster, It’s a Grind Coffee
- Aimee Bullington, quality control, VOLCAFE Specialty Coffee
- Tina Berard, Vice President, Atlantic Specialty Coffee
- Rocky Rhodes, founder, Rocky Roaster
- Christy Thorns, Allegro
- Rebecca Sanborn, Business Development, Elan Organic Coffees
- Ric Rhinehart, Groundwork
- Marcel Clement, Rainforest Alliance
The judges used the SCAA cupping form and protocol and
used 10 criteria worth a maximum of 10 points each. They evaluated coffees
for fragrance/aroma, flavor, aftertaste, acidity, body, uniformity,
balance, cleanliness, sweetness and overall impression. Cuppers were told
the country of origin of the coffees, altitude, processing/milling
details, varietal and harvesting period.
Rainforest Alliance Certified coffees have consistently
earned high marks at international cupping events. Last year, 12 lots of
Rainforest Alliance Certified coffee earned the coveted Q grade at a
cupping organized by the
Coffee Quality
Institute in Guatemala. To make the grade, coffees must score at least
80 points of a possible 100 and have no primary defects. Also last year,
for the second year in a row, the winner of the
World
Barista Championship featured Rainforest Alliance Certified coffee in
his drinks. The winning barista, Klaus Thomsen, used coffee from
Daterra,
which was the first farm in Brazil to earn Rainforest Alliance
certification. The 2005 winner, Troels Overdal Poulsen, also used
Rainforest Alliance Certified coffee from Daterra.
Tastes:
What Is Coffee Worth?
By Mark Pendergrast
From Wine Spectator magazine,
November 15, 2006 issue
I recently received a press release that sounded snobby
and hucksterish: "Intelligentsia Roasting Works Offers Up the World's Most
Expensive Coffee." It explained that for a limited time I could purchase a
half-pound of roasted Panama Hacienda La Esmeralda Geisha beans for a mere
$51.95. So I bought some.
I've got to say that despite my initial skepticism, this
brew was really something—a Yirgacheffe on Central American acid, so to
speak. The taste and silky feel lingered in my mouth long after my last
sip. Cupper and coffee consultant Willem Boot, who is planting Geisha
seedlings on his own Panamanian property, says the coffee hit him "like a
thunderbolt," with its tamarind fruit acidity, mango-papaya sweet flavor
notes and lingering perfumy, floral finish.
But is it $100-a-pound good? How much is coffee worth?
How much should the average consumer be willing to pay for a cup of
coffee? My short answer is that people should pay whatever they are
comfortable paying. You can certainly get very good roasted beans for $10
a pound, one-tenth the price I paid for my Panamanian rarity. But I would
urge you to expand your mind and your budget when it comes to exploring
unusual coffee experiences.
It has always astonished me how cheap U. S. consumers
are when it comes to coffee. We seem to think that it is our birthright to
drink inexpensive, bottomless cups. Indeed, every time the price of coffee
has shot up quickly, Americans have mounted boycott campaigns, politicians
have held hearings to investigate the Latin American or Communist plots
behind the rise, and coffee roasters have cheapened their blends.
Yet, interestingly, many of the same consumers are
willing to pay quite a lot for a fine bottle of wine, understanding that
grapes are not just grapes, and that where they grow and what vintners do
with them makes a great deal of difference.
The Geisha beans illustrate just how far the coffee
industry must go to get anywhere near viniculture in people's perception.
There are not that many varieties of arabica coffee bean. They originated
in Ethiopia. Typica beans are probably the most direct descendent. Bourbon
beans were first discovered on the island of that name (now called
Reunion), near Madagascar. Caturra and Maragogype evolved in Brazil. More
recent hybrids, such as Catuai, Mundo Novo and Catimor, are more
disease-resistant and have higher yields, but they were not bred for
taste.
Now, the Geisha beans are taking the specialty coffee
world by storm. They come out of Panama, from the farm of grower Price
Peterson, but their origin can be traced to Ethiopia. In 1931, the British
consulate authorized the collection of ripe cherries of forest coffee
(growing wild in the rainforest understory) from a region called Gesha, in
southwest Ethiopia, and had them sent to a Kenyan agricultural center. The
Amharic name was changed to the more familiar Japanese term. The variety
eventually reached Panama in the 1960s.
Until recently, no one thought to harvest and process
the Geisha beans separately. Price Peterson credits his son, Daniel, with
cupping beans from different areas of their farm in the Boquete region of
western Panama and discovering that a small, high valley planted to
Geishas produced an extraordinary brew. The entire harvest yielded only
100 bags, and I sampled the intense flavor of those rare beans that
morning.
You can brew about 40 cups of strong coffee with a pound
of beans. That means that I paid about $2.50 for my extraordinary
cup—considerably less than what I would pay for the same volume of
anything at Starbucks.
Chicago-based Intelligentsia is one of the cutting-edge,
fanatical coffee roasters that scours the world for tiny lots of
incredible beans. You will learn more about their philosophies,
personalities, adventures and discoveries in future columns.
For the record, however, the Panamanian Geishas are not
the world's most expensive coffee beans. That honor goes to Kopi Luwak,
rare beans that have been processed through the intestines of an
Indonesian civet cat. They cost $160 or more per pound. Perhaps I'll
sample some for a future column.
Mark Pendergrast is author of
Uncommon Grounds, a history of
coffee.
Originally
printed in Wine Spectator magazine, November 15, 2006 issue
(Top)

Wine & Food Feature
Most Expensive Coffee
Hyon Jung Lee 07.20.06, 12:30 AM ET
The most expensive cup of joe, in the minds of many
coffee drinkers, is a $4 coffee at Starbucks. Perhaps a half-caf
soy almond latte prepared by a favorite barista.
But for serious coffee connoisseurs, people who are
looking for a world-class drink rather than a "gourmet" cup, the top fare
is made from the highest-quality beans in the world. The beans come from
very specific regions and are prized for their unique characteristics.
Cultivated on small farms, they are coddled by farmers who care more about
quality than quantity.
You wouldn't dare add milk or sugar to coffee of this
caliber--it would compete with the beans' natural sweetness, and distinct
flavors and aromas.
Such top-quality coffees are rare--and prices for them
are accordingly high. Superior beans command retail prices of over $100
per pound in what the Specialty Coffee Association of America,
a Long Beach, Calif.-based trade association, describes as a $11
billion-plus specialty coffee market.
We have searched the specialty coffee market for the
priciest coffee in the world--not the most expensive cups of coffee, which
can vary by a matter of cents--but the priciest specialty beans.
They include such products as
Hacienda la Esmeralda Geisha from Panama, which made news at the end
of May when it set an auction record of $50.25 per pound. Praised for its
fruit and floral flavors, it retails for more than $100 per pound. There
are also novelty coffees, whose prices are influenced not just by quality,
but by the romance or uniqueness of their origins.
St. Helena coffee, for instance, is a high-quality coffee grown on the
remote South Atlantic island to which Napoleon Bonaparte was exiled in
1815. Then there's the Indonesian
Kopi Luwak, a coffee that is only roasted after it's been eaten and
excreted by a palm civet.
The U.S. coffee market looks very different today than
it did a half-century ago. From the 1950s to the 1990s, a few small
roasters managed to obtain high-quality beans for select markets like New
York's Little Italy or Berkeley, Calif. But most coffee was sold in cans,
and consumers were more concerned with price and consistency than taste.
In 1962, the U.S. reached a peak in per capita coffee
consumption: The average person was drinking more than three cups of murky
brown swill per day. Despite the proliferation of Starbucks (nasdaq:
SBUX -
news -
people ), which was founded in 1971, today the average American drinks
less than two cups of coffee per day. That coffee is significantly
tastier, however.
Coffee evangelists have long sought to elevate coffee
above commodity status. For years, great coffees were blended away, used
to make fairly uniform-tasting brews. Little recognition was given to the
individual farmer, and the unique flavor profiles of different varieties
of coffees, or coffees from different micro-climates, were ignored.
With the specialty coffee boom of the '90s, great beans
are now making a more direct journey from crop to cup. Specialty roasters
and retailers buy beans directly from the farmers, paying premiums that
encourage them to improve growing methods and produce superior beans. The
beans are transported and carefully roasted before being sold to
consumers. "While you cannot make a mediocre coffee good during the
roasting process, you can ruin a great coffee during roasting," said Mike
Ferguson of SCAA.
George Howell,
founder of the George Howell Coffee Company and its
Terroir Coffee brand based in Acton, Mass., emphasizes that coffee is a
"noble beverage," worthy of the same respect as fine wine. A 30-year
veteran of the coffee industry, he has pushed to decommoditize coffee.
After creating models of economic sustainability for
coffee farmers for both the United Nations and the International Coffee
Organization, Howell co-founded the Cup Of Excellence program, among the
most esteemed award programs for coffees. The strict competition selects
the best coffee produced in a country for a particular year. The winners
are auctioned off online.
Many of the most expensive coffees in the world are Cup
of Excellence winners. In compiling our rankings, we examined auction
prices for green (unroasted) beans and spoke to roasters and trade
organizations around the country. Only single origin coffees were
considered, which means that the beans come from one place. Blends were
not considered, because they can contain inferior beans from unidentified
sources.
In general, we ranked the coffees by retail price. One
exception is
El Injerto from the Huehuetenango region of Guatemala, which is not
yet available but is expected to retail at more than $50 per pound. The
second is
Fazenda Santa Ines from Brazil, which has already been bought up and
is only available by the cup; we ranked it by its auction price of nearly
$50 per pound. We rounded all figures to the nearest dollar.
As expensive as these coffees are, when compared with
wine, the best coffee beans are a relative bargain.
"If you pay $10 per pound for the coffee you brew at
home, a cup of coffee costs less than a Coke from a 12-pack," Howell
points out. Even if you pay twice as much for a pound of beans, an entire
pot of coffee will still cost less than a glass of wine from a $10 bottle.
So even at these prices, feel free to drink up.
(Top)
 |

June 23, 2006
BY JANET RAUSA FULLER
Staff Reporter
What's touted as the world's most expensive coffee hails from Panama,
but Chicago coffee lovers with a hankering -- and a hefty wallet -- don't
have to travel that far to get it.
Chicago coffeemaker Intelligentsia Roasting Works is offering Hacienda
la Esmeralda Geisha coffee for $51.95 -- per half pound.
Customers on Intelligentsia's e-mail list got first crack at buying the
rare coffee online on Thursday, and by late afternoon, 17 orders had been
placed. On Monday, Intelligentsia will offer the beans to the general
public in its stores and on the Web.
But it's a limited-edition sale. Only 15 pounds will be available for
purchase at each of the three Intelligentsia stores, and 45 pounds for
online sales.
The coffee, grown on a farm in the mountains of Western Panama, fetched
a record-breaking wholesale price of $50.25 a pound at an online auction
hosted by the Specialty Coffee Association of America on May 30. The same
coffee, which scored 94.6 out of 100 in a cupping competition in April,
sold for $21 a pound at auction in 2004, a record then.
Not your ordinary bean
"There was this buzz immediately, that this was really something
extraordinary," said Mike Ferguson, spokesman for the Specialty Coffee
Association of America, describing the first time the geisha coffee was
tasted in competition.
So what makes this coffee so special? Even the Peterson clan, whose
estate grows the coffee, remain somewhat perplexed.
"We are not really sure yet whether this cup is the result of the
micro-climate in the small valley, the rather unusual variety of coffee
planted there, or a combination of both," Price Peterson, whose
grandfather founded Hacienda la Esmeralda, writes on their Web site.
Doug Zell, founder of Intelligentsia, which works directly with
growers, said consumer interest in specialty coffee is taking off much as
it did with wine in recent decades. Do the math, Zell says, and coffee is
an even better value, even at $50 a pound.
"You buy a glass of wine for $12, nobody complains. The elevation
toward a marvelous culinary experience is happening in coffee and I don't
think we should be ashamed," he said. "For us, the hope was always to
elevate this ... so it was never just a cup of coffee."
Zell has some advice for those those who get their hands on some of the
geisha coffee and plan to brew a pot at home.
"Start with great water, either filtered or spring water," he said. Use
two tablespoons of coffee for every 6-ounce cup. Whether you're using a
French press or machine, aim for one that can reach 200 degrees
Fahrenheit.
And drink up because after a week, it will have lost its freshness, he
said.
"It's not like buying cognac," he said.
jfuller@suntimes.com
(Top)
Panama Coffee
Geisha Smashes World Price Record
Source: Reuters
01/06/2006
Panama City, May 31 - Geishas are famous for being
shy and retiring, but in Panama they are breaking world records and even
putting Brazilian beauties in the shade.
A Panamanian specialty coffee, a rare variety of the geisha plant
strain, sold for a record-breaking $50.25 a lb. in an online auction
hosted by the Specialty Coffee Association of America late Tuesday.
At over 50 times the price of standard beans, the geisha beat the
previous online record price of $49.75 a lb., held by a Brazilian bean.
Specialty coffee auctions gained popularity after a global slump, when
prices paid on the benchmark New York "C" contract didn't cover production
costs and many farmers focused on higher-quality beans for gourmet
consumers that could sell at a premium price.
Some analysts say better prices for generic coffee in recent harvests
have made the auctions increasingly irrelevant, but Daniel Price Peterson,
whose farm produced the winning lot, disagrees.
"Specialty coffee and auctions will be here, even if standard prices go
up. The 'C' market is like playing Russian Roulette with your farm. It
goes up and down, and you can't lower production costs that much," he told
Reuters.
His winning geisha ripened in the shade of old guava trees at 1,600
meters (5,249 feet) above sea level at the Hacienda La Esmeralda farm in
the town of Boquete in the western highlands of Panama.
Price Peterson, who also heads Panama's Specialty Coffee Association,
told Reuters he was in shock at the price his beans had fetched.
"I get goose bumps just thinking about it. I'm totally flabbergasted,
I'm absolutely walking on air today," he told Reuters Wednesday.
Last year beans from the same farm sold for $20.10 a lb.; in 2004 they
sold at $21 a lb. -- a record at that time.
Price Peterson's geisha scored 94.6 points out of a possible 100 at a
taste-test in April, with judges competing for superlatives and florid
descriptions of its flavor.
One judge joked that even though he was an atheist he saw God when he
tried the geisha, which he said had hints of bergamot oil, ginger,
blackberry and ripe mango.
Over 33,000 lbs.of coffee were sold in 31 lots at the auction, and
fetched from $1.50 to $14.20 a pound. The average price was $4.72, with 10
lots selling at over $6 a lb.

May 30, 2006
Panama’s
Best Coffees Set New Records in Online Auction
Famed Hacienda la Esmeralda Sells for Over $50 a
Pound
LONG BEACH, Calif. U.S.A. (May 30, 2006)--- Panama’s
number one coffee, from Hacienda la Esmeralda, once again set an online
coffee auction record when it sold for over $50 dollars a pound during an
online auction on May 30th. Hacienda la Esmeralda placed first in the
“Best of Panama” cupping competition in April with a score of 94.6 out of
100.
The coffee was purchased by Small Axe Coffee Alliance,
which consists of Sweet Maria's Coffee Inc, Stumptown Coffee Roasters,
Intelligentsia Coffee Roasters, Groundwork Coffee Company and Norwegian
coffee roaster, Kaffa.
Competition was active on many of the lots offered
during internet auction, which lasted 10 hours as several bidders were
after the small lot of five 60-kilo bags of Hacienda la Esmeralda, as well
Bambito Estates and Carmen Estates, which placed second and third in the
competition, respectively, and also received high prices. When the auction
closed, Hacienda la Esmeralda had sold for a stunning price of $50.25 a
pound. Commercial-grade coffee is currently trading in commodity markets
for just over $1 a pound.
Price Peterson of Hacienda la Esmeralda said, “It is
events like this, and the great response of the buyers, that is like a
cheering section for us farmers. It tells us that someone out there really
appreciates the effort we put into preparing our coffee and, even if the
commodity prices do not reflect it, someone up north cares. Everyone likes
to feel that.”
The online auction was hosted by the Specialty Coffee
Association of America (SCAA). Ted Lingle, SCAA’s executive director,
said, “When you consider the average price paid for these 31 lots was
$4.75, it is clear that Panama is producing high quality coffee and has
captured the attention of roasters who are interested in only the best.”
In addition to Hacienda la Esmeralda, thirty additional
lots totaling over 33,000 pounds of high scoring coffee from the “Best of
Panama” were also sold in the online auction, fetching prices from $1.50
to $14.20 a pound.
View the results of the auction!
Learn more about the Best of Panama
Learn more about Sweet Maria’s Coffee
Inc.
Learn more about Stumptown Coffee
Roasters
Learn more about Intelligentsia Coffee
Roasters
Learn more about Groundwork Coffee
Company
Learn more about Kaffa
Contact: Mike Ferguson ~ 562-624-4100 ~
mferguson@scaa.org
|
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